A Holiday in Hoorn, concluded, Sunday 31 July

On the morning of Sunday, July 31st, we declined the invitation to worship given by various Church bells around the town, and instead sat drinking tea/coffee in the cockpit, exchanging pleasantries and goodbyes with our neighbours of miscellaneous nationalities, and generally meditating on the joys of life.

The Mouse

Anchors aweigh!

Afterwards, on the way to a walk round the foreland, we came across a dormouse (we think), which seemed to have lost its way on the paved road. There followed a contest between ourselves and a cat which suddenly appeared on the scene, with us trying to guide the mouse towards the hedgerow, and the cat trying to enjoy a  succulent Sunday breakfast. Who won?  The answer lies in the undergrowth…. 

The harbour was full of movement, mostly of departing yachts, including one very majestic 3-master whose “going astern” signal must surely have woken up anyone still asleep in the north of Holland.

Another ship scene

  The anchorage, picturesque as ever, demanded more photography, as did the swimmers in the nearby regatta.

The swimming regatta

Further on in the park, we came across an enclosure containing a variety of animals and fowl, all in a very well-kept environment.

In the park nearby

This could be a good spot for a note on marina fees. Some include electricity and showers, some don’t. Water is mostly free, but sometimes charged for (eg Kaag). Laundry ranges between 7 & 12 euros for a wash/dry. All of this makes comparison difficult, and the “per night” base rate can be quite misleading. For example, at Aeolus, we paid 10 Euros per night, free water and electricity, and 50c for a shower—a total of 11 euros for two. Here at Hoorn, showers are 1euro each, electricity works out at about  Euro 2.50 per day, making a total of  nearly Euro 18 for two. However, it’s still much cheaper than France (or, indeed, Yarmouth), and  we know ourselves to be an electricity-hungry household.  It is still terrific value.



And it's goodbye to WSV Hoorn...



  

A Holiday in Hoorn, continued

Saturday 30th, the last weekend in July, seemed very quiet in the yacht haven. Were we missing something?  Where was everybody?  What was going on nearby that needed a PA system?

Playing out with the lads

 Off to town we went to find out, and we soon came across the weekly Saturday market, which had closed off much of the town centre, even for bikes! 



The best of local produce





 All the usual stalls of a continental market were present, the same goods, the same assortment of canvas covers and frame tents, etc,  - the only difference was that the signs were in Dutch.

Sat sitting in the square -

People-watching in the square was as good as ever—better, in fact, since the coolness of the overcast day had persuaded the thoughtful owner of  one of the cafes to place lambskins on the wicker chairs, and these were heated by infra-reds from under the canopy. These Dutch think of everything!



- looking at the Town Hall



Dinner on board was particularly memorable - fresh fish and excellent cheeses from local specialist shops – and then, just to be sociable, we headed off to the clubhouse for desserts and coffees. This is the life!

-from all points of view

A Holiday in Hoorn 28 July onwards

Our first evening , July 28, in Hoorn began with another “Cheese Market”, in the town square, which was roped off to provide an arena for the hundreds of eager tourists (including ourselves).

Family fun

A Dutch Treat

 This version, however, was just pure entertainment, family style, with rides for the kiddies, cheese samples for the gourmets, a horse and cart for “authenticity”, and pretty girls in costume to add colour and photogenics. 

Later, we enjoyed the last of the twilight on the balcony of the Yacht Club, and decided to prolong our stay. 

The cheesemaster adjudicates

Which cafe next?

Friday 29th, well rested after a good sleep and a slow morning, the town was a bit quieter, as we observed from the café in the main square.

The shops and the sales occupied the crew quite satisfactorily for a while, and the skipper had a mooch around the harbour, the pleasant surprise of the  park behind the club, and the anchorage in the pre-harbour. 

WSV Hoorn balcony

The anchorage, Hoorn

 It is amazing , with just a few weeks of practice, just how easy it becomes to while away an entire afternoon in the simple enjoyment of  gentle relaxation, and this blog’s policy is to recommend more practice in pursuit of  perfection in the art.

 In the evening, it was “showtime”, and the saloon was re-arranged into cinema format, for the viewing of a couple of DVDs.  But which DVD?  No doubt, some of our readers (assuming there is more than one?) will have noticed that the free DVDs from the “Daily Mail”, or “The Times” can breed in a corner if left undisturbed, and that they are incredibly difficult to throw out (“in case we ever get desperate”). Well, we passed over a couple of Catherine Cooksons (but still didn’t  dump them), and we watched “La Dolce Vita”, in all its 3rd-generation copy fuzziness, as well as an early episode of  “Fools and Horses”. (There was no need to be desperate, as we had lots of good films still unwatched - but the clutter has to be attacked somehow).

Thursday 28th July. A Short Passage to Hoorn.



Engines 882, water 1/1, fuel 3/4=, Forecast F2 NNE, sun/cloud, some showers.


Edam from the Markermeer



.1020 Cast off, after a slow and leisurely start to the day. The marina were very apologetic about the state of their wifi, and outlined all the extensive steps they were taking to get it working properly. We set out in bright sunshine, with a few cotton-wool clouds, and warm already.

.1040  Abeam of Edam fairway markers. Getting hazy. Flat sea, running at 1500=, 7kn. AOK.

.1110  Gave engines a 5-minute “blast” to clean off injectors (lots of smoke). Precautionary pump to bilges. Position at buoy LUW10 (not on the Staandemast chart). Hoorn easily visible at 000deg. The sea is flat, the air is still, and the way to the horizon is dotted with yachts and fishing boats going their ways and doing their things.

Marking off a sports area

(Note to mariners: The Staandemast chart is taken from the regular inland series, but they have removed the lat/long lines, and many of the markers. Thus, the detailed charts are a necessity, esp in fog, if it should occur).

.1150  Requesting berth by phone at Hoorn entrance. Very helpful,  perfect English, “Echo 3-5”

.1215  Tied up, stern in, facing a very picturesque church, Sunshine and calm.

Crew at work

Marina fee Euro 14.40 pn, laundry 7.00 (w+d), showers 1.00, electricity 0.50 in the slot. Water free. 300 or so berths, very well kept with nice gardens, good clubhouse and restaurant, with balcony overlooking marina and part of harbour.  Later inspection confirmed the decision not to enter the inner harbour, where they were rafted up to 5 deep, and the larger, commercial marina, whilst possibly more convenient, lacked character. The bicycles allow us to come and go easily, and discerning cruising crews should not be without them.

Hoorn is enchanting. The harbour is straight out of a story book, with its towers, cobbles, ancient yachts, barges, and mariners. The town is bustling and bursting with history, whilst the high street has all that a shopper could wish for

A postcard from Hoorn

3 Ancient Mariners

. (Note to shopaholics: The effects of the economic crisis have reached here, also, and Summer sales are in full swing everywhere. Our crew even managed to find a “bargain” or two).

No connection with the previous note, but we also found a compatible cash point to replenish the wallets which drain so quickly in this area where UK cards don’t work.

Wed 27 July - A cheesy day out in Edam, etc



A breather on the dyke



Until now, most of our time in Holland has been spent in small co-operative “Jacht-havens” of around 50 boats or so max, so this morning, in the large marina of Volendam, it was like waking up in the forest, where the trees were masts of all heights and colours, the branches all short and horizontal, and the leaves were pennants and various other fluttering emblems. The pontoons are not, in fact, pontoons, since the inland sea is not tidal, but old habits are hard to shake, and ours were the only bikes lying down, as all the locals were quite happy to leave theirs on their stands.



It turned out another lovely morning, making us loiter happily  for a couple of hours in the cockpit  with teas, coffees, and suntan creams, etc before setting out for the day’s adventures.



On the way past, we checked for a few essentials—laundry, supermarket and compatible gas-bottle (luckily, the local chandler had our type in stock). Again, we cycled to Edam along the dyke, stopping for a breather to sit on a bench taking in the stunning view of many happy yachters gliding along on a rippled sea. (This is such good cruising country, cycling country, and family-holiday country).



What a get-up!

The cheese market at Edam was easy to find. We just followed the crowds, the noise, the brass-band music, and a “Beverley Hillbillies” vintage Ford pick-up truck. Everything was there– the traditional costumes, the exaggerated haggling, the wince-making hand-slapping, posing for photos, all to the background of oompah music from a band in the corner.

And watched by a thousand spectators from every corner of the globe. It was a completely enjoyable spectacle, summed up by one word—cheesy! (Perhaps the origin of the modern expression?)

 

Coffee on the terrace of a lovely little boutique hotel gave us the added attraction of seeing the cycling-bridgemaster operate one of the “see-saw” bridges to allow a couple of  cruisers continue seaward, and the cycle ride back worked up enough appetite for two bags of chips which we ate on the harbour wall. Magic!

The rest of the day flowed gently past, with shopping, gassing, laundry, and a bit of bicycle maintenance—the newly purchased foot-held pump finally got the tyres to proper pressure).

Dinner on board concluded with a course of some of the local cheeses bought earlier, and we both remarked that we have not found their equal in UK shops. (One of the vendors had told us that the “Edam” we buy at home is made some distance away—“in a factory”, he said, disparagingly. Then , in a splendid sunset, we did “Volendam by evening”, and agreed that this is definitely a place to return to…..

26 July, Another cracking day out, Gromit!

Amsterdam to Volendam via Ijmeer & Markermeer, 25 km

Fuel 3/4=, water3/4, engines 879. Dry, overcast, but rain lurking in the clouds.

.0900  Cast off from Aeolus, promising the harbourmaster that we would return  in a week.

…….   A note here about Aeolus—the reports we had heard from other sailors give a very false impression. We found that security was good, the staff could not be more friendly, and the residents of the neighbourhood were as peaceable as you would find anywhere. Add to this that a very large supermarket is literaaly next door, that it’s only an extra 10 minutes walk over Sixhaven, and that the clubhouse price for a glass of wine is Eur 1.00, and there’s no contest.



A horizon view



.0930  Clearing Oranjesluis, which seemed to open when it saw us coming. Then, out into a delightful expanse of broad, calm water, where the sky was brightening up. Dotted with islands, it was great cruising country. We cruised along on the edge of the main channel, watching the ships and barges of all sizes as they plied along their ways.



At the lighthouse



.1000  Pootling along at 8kn on a flat sea (although it felt more like a lake), at buoy MIJ9. Depth out of channel still 3.0m. AOK.

.1030   AOK. Some weed to be negotiated. Lots of yachts now on the move, requiring a wide berth (Middlewatch does make a sizeable wake, even at 8 kn). Now at MIJ3. Starting to rain, but still a glimmer of hopeful blue above the horizon.

.1100  Rounding Marken Island at MN5. AOK. Great scenery, albeit still cloudy and dry.

.1130  Approaching Marina Volendam. Tie up on reporting berth (“meldsteiger”) and phone for berth. (We learned later that there was a push button on the notice board which gave a direct connection to the harbour office)

.1200 Astern into box B31, and, amazingly, next to Roger & Jenny of several previous entries!

The marina looks super, fees Eur 13.50 per night +1 for electricity. Showers and wifi free

 

Volendam waterfront

To our disappointment, the wifi was not working properly. Even though they had told us at the office that their regular service was faulty, and had given us free access to a commercial hotspot, the signal strength was low, the speed terrible, and the dropouts regular. (Is it not remarkable that the internet has become such a mainstream part of everyday life?)

Anyway, after sorting out and settling in we unfolded the bikes and pedalled round to the Volendam waterfront, and what an experience—it was like when Blackpool met San Fransisco Pier 59– thousands of tourists, hundreds of cafes, dozens of tourist day-trip boats, and even 1 very large hotel-ship which berthed very gingerly before disgorging its contents to join the tourist throng. It was a  great holiday feeling to be a part of it all.



A tourist in Edam



We spent some time taking all of this in at a pavement coffee table, and then, suitably amazed and refreshed, we cycled off to Edam, 5km distant. (By now, we are much more in control of the bikes, and can even ride 2-abreast without disaster.)

Edam is enchanting, with its canals, bridges, buildings and beautifully-kept residences, which we  meandered around for long enough to merit a coffee in one of its squares before cycling back. When we arrived, our “neighbour” Jenny of “Avocet, Felixstowe” suggested a get-together, so, after dinner, we had a late evening soiree on Middlewatch, and finally a hand or two of cards to round off the day. A cracking day out, Gromit

An Amsterdam Journal, continued, 25 July

An early morning marina resident

0645: Up at the crack of dawn an hour ago to see that Nuala got away safely on the 0620 ferry. The sun is already shining, windows are demisting themselves, and the "drying shed" has done sterling work, so things will look even brighter after a short return to snoozeville.

Later:  Although this morning  had been scheduled for boat and battery maintenance, the sun was out, the marina was abuzz with watchable departures, and the sunbathing station was too inviting. Across the way, a 44 ft yacht needed its 2 families to contain the energy of 2 5-7 yr old boys who climbed masts and chainlink fences, and tried to catch passing boats with their fishing gear. Exhausting!

After lunch, the boat finally received its promised look-at. Surprisingly, one of the batteries was quite low on fluid (must check more often), but all oils, coolants, filters and belts were behaving properly, and the engines were run up to temperature without hitch.

Overview Willemstad to Ijsselmeer

Our plan now is to leave Amsterdam for a week or so to explore some of the Ijsselmeer, and return for Hayley's visit (and perhaps to meet up with the Thomsons on their way back from Greece).  Referring to the map opposite, we have recently come from page 7 through 8,9,10,11,21, 22,23,24 and 14, and now plan to visit pages 27 to 30, maybe more.

Our plan for today, exploring the Northside, was on hold, due to rain, but it cleared up later on, allowing a cycle ride around the district, and another look at Sixhaven.


A drink before departure- Aeolus



Sixhaven -boats per sq metre

Name that town

Choices, dilemas and Conundrums (guest entry by Nuala)

Well dear readers, a change in style here, 'tis Nuala here with a guest blog post.  My trusting Dad has allowed me to access to his PC and here I go.  As a member of the bloggorati I know that future editing is possible so there should be no need to be alarmed.

Great weather for ducks (and grebes)

Following a splendid meal last night and ample sleeping mixture (yes the house wine is good) we got up with no urgency, it did not take bionic hearing to determine that  a) it was raining and b) that it looked like the rain was going to persist all day.  None the less there were important decisions to be made:

- shall we open the Gewurtztraminer at lunch time or save it till the evening?

- should we have afternoon quiet time (aka snooze) at 2pm or later?
- where do you hold your phone to get best WiFi

Do we look downhearted?

Interspersing important decision making with a bit of reading, morning coffee and showers it was amazing how quickly lunch accelerated towards us.  Gill and Tom humoured me by talking about a few dry and dusty academic papers. Mid afternoon we decided on a stroll into Amsterdam, so donning waterproofs and a we-shall-not-be-defeated-by-a-bit-of-rain attitude we sauntered towards the ferry.  I though we must have been a fetching sight and blended in well with the locals who still seem to ride their bikes in the rain some with children under capes, others masterfully peddling whilst holding umbrellas.



Variations in waterproof style



Waterproofs are great but you have a choice: do I wear waterproof trousers and get water in my shoes (Dad) or do I not wear the waterproof trousers and get runoff above the knees (Nuala).  Dear reader the choice is always yours.

Following a little browsing in a rather chic department store ("the beehive" - the dutch name had slightly too many vowels to remember), then a coffee and a cake, we then had to move on to a beer in a local bar (note NOT coffee house).  This was a great place for people wattching, Gill wondered if a man being very silly (see prior post) was dressed as a bannana, 

Work this one out (clue: it's upside down)



 but I did point out the presence of two spheres at his feet and we were left considering what exactly he was doing climibing into a shopping trolley. 


The new drying shed extension

Back to the boat, (yes we did save the Gewurz for apperitif), the washing line is now constructed and decorated with dripping waterproofs; there are tantalising smells coming from the galley. I am sad to be leaving tomorrow, I feel my "being leisured" training is not yet complete.  Shall I come back for a resit?

23/24 July- An Easy Weekend in Amsterdam



That's not a city development - it's a cruise ship



With a mixed weather forecast, a few little “jobbies”, and with walking-feet still remembering yesterday’s  yomp, Saturday was declared a day of ease. This involved sleeping late, coffees at the clubhouse watching traffic passing at the mouth of the haven, chatting to the crew of nearby boats, and generally chilling out.

 ( The yacht 3 boats down is from Hartlepool and has been here in Aeolus for 3 weeks waiting for a replacement for its broken gearbox)

 Nuala summoned up enough energy for an afternoon expedition across the  river to the city.

Friday July 22 - Nuala meets her Uncle, and other stories



Are we paranoid? - Yarmouth, Brighton, Amsterdam....?

The text message from Nuala came quite early, saying that she had landed at Schiphol, so before long, we were off the ferry and greeting her at Central Station. Then, as previously arranged, we met up with Terry & Kathleen for quite a family reunion in a café across the square. (Note that we met in a café, not a coffee-shop. “Coffee-shop” is a term reserved for those places where they can legally sell wacky-baccy and other choice products.)

Nuala meets Uncle T & Auntie K

Parting with T&K, we set off back to the boat and after Nuala had been inducted, oriented chatted and rested, it was off again for the day’s touristic adventures.

A shared chuckle

A note here is required about the very informative and helpful advice given in the Amsterdam Tourist Guide ;  In the Red Light District, one has to be very careful, apparently, as some of the women in the windows may not actually be women! Also, it seems, alcohol can produce undesirable activities such as jumping in the canals, which is not permitted. We read further that urinating in the street is frowned upon, this being an offence  practised mostly by men.

The centrepiece of the day was our  visit to the Van Gogh Museum, which we reached via a 1-hour walk through the squares, streets, boulevards and canalsides of the city—a great experience in itself. We had decided earlier not to visit the unique Sex Museum, since Nuala seemed to think that Debretts might frown upon visiting such an establishment with one’s father.



Van Gogh here we come



We rested the weary legs by returning to the centre on a “bendy-tram”, another memorable achievement. This gave us the opportunity to discuss our opinions on Van Gogh’s art over some pre-dinner refreshment  and then a fine dinner at “The Red Lion” ( not at all similar to the one in Freshwater, IOW). Finally, we were rested well enough to give our new guest  a guided tour of the “RLD”, before going back to Middlewatch for an end-of-day sundowner.

A well-recommended "Red Lion" (De Roode Leeuw")

Thursday 21 July - The "Canadian" visitors

Today's big story is all about the meeting up with Terry, Tom's younger brother, and his wife Kathleen, who have just retired from their work in Western Canada, and are making their way back to a new home in Donegal via a trans-Atlantic cruise.

On the way over to Middlewatch

It was a great day, all round.

Kathleen phoned from town in the late morning, and we met up shortly after lunch, taking some refreshment in the "Victoria Hotel".  From there we progressed back to Middlewatch, noting that Sixhaven was as crowded as ever. 

Yachts streaming into Sixhaven

We spent the afternoon on Middlewatch, conversing, reminiscing and catching up with their internet, and later we returned to the city.

An Amsterdam shopping centre

 After some short searching, we enjoyed a fine dinner in a typical Dutch brasserie, before setting off on an eye-opening tour of the red-light area by late evening. An experience! (But we had to become knowledgeable, so as to act as proficient tour guides for our next visitors)

T&K at MiddleWatch, in Aeolus



Four for dinner

 We finished off the evening at a pavement cafe in the main Dam Square, agreeing to meet up tomorrow morning, with our next visitor, daughter Nuala.